1)  Roundup Ready Alfalfa Facing Planting Strictures

MANHATTAN, Kan. – Farmers planning to plant Roundup Ready alfalfa this year need to hurry.

A U.S. District Court in San Francisco issued a preliminary injunction order March 12, finding fault with the regulatory process the U.S. Department of Agriculture used in approving the Monsanto product.

Pending further hearings, the court injunction stopped sales of Roundup Ready alfalfa seed March 12. Growers who had bought the seed earlier may still plant it – IF they can do so by March 30.

“Planting as early as March is by no means usual in Kansas. Still, it shouldn’t cause any stand problems,” said Jim Shroyer, Kansas State University agronomist.

K-State recommends no-till or reduced-till as the best approach to planting alfalfa, he said. Either offers a firm soil surface, helps maintain soil moisture, saves time, and reduces planting costs.

“One problem with having a narrow planting window, though, is that you don’t want any weeds growing when you seed alfalfa,” said Dallas Peterson, weed scientist with K-State Research and Extension. “At the same time, you have to be certain that no herbicide carryover from a previous crop could injure the emerging plants.”

Another potential delay is alfalfa’s nutrient needs, he said. Producers must inoculate alfalfa seed to help it achieve the nitrogen fixation needed for top production. They also need an already-completed soil test to determine which fertilizer and/or other soil amendments to apply.

“Alfalfa does best when the soil pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.5. In soils with a lower pH, alfalfa can grow thin and weedy, so applying lime before planting can pay big dividends,” Shroyer said. “Plus, alfalfa is a big phosphorus user, removing about 10 pounds of P with every ton of alfalfa harvested.

“Past research in Kansas has shown that applying and incorporating a P fertilizer will result in large yield increases. Even in a no-till situation, a surface-applied P fertilizer can have a long-term, beneficial effect on productivity. First, however, you need that soil test to know how much to apply.”

Roundup Ready alfalfa is resistant to the effects of Roundup, a popular weed-controlling herbicide.

 

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2)  Mowing: How Low Should You Go?

MANHATTAN, Kan. – Lowering lawn mower height in early spring is a good/bad idea.

“It certainly isn’t necessary. In fact, it can be harmful if you scalp parts of your lawn,” said Ward Upham, horticulturist with Kansas State University Research and Extension.

Even so, mowing cool-season turfs (e.g., Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue) 1 to 1.5 inches high can actually speed green-up, Upham added. That not only removes some of the old, dead grass but also allows the soil to warm up faster.

“After one or two cuttings, however, you need to raise your mower back to recommended height,” he warned. “The higher mowing height will shade the soil. That’s important now because crabgrass seed needs light to germinate.”

For Kentucky bluegrass, the recommended mowing height range is 2 to 3 inches. For tall fescue, it’s 2.5 to 3.5 inches.

With upright-growing turfs such as bluegrass and fescue, mowing height also relates to root depth, the horticulturist said.

“Within the recommended mowing ranges, at least, the higher the height of the cut, the deeper the root system,” Upham said. “And, a deeper root system means a more drought-resistant turf by the time summer’s drier, hotter weather hits.”


 

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3) Divide Income Tax Refund to Save

MANHATTAN, Kan. – If they opt for direct deposit, taxpayers entitled to an income tax refund this year can divide their deposit among up to three accounts – such as checking, savings and investment accounts.

Earmarking refund dollars for direct deposit to a savings or investment account can reduce the temptation to spend, said Carol Young, financial management specialist with Kansas State University Research and Extension.

Also new this year is a one-time long-distance telephone tax credit ($30 for individuals and $40 for a joint return) and a home energy credit of up to $500.

For more information about managing money, a basic money management curriculum is now available at any local K-State Research and Extension office. Many Kansas Extension offices also are emphasizing saving and spending strategies and financial management education as part of Kansas Saves – a program connected to America Saves, which is a “Save and Reduce Debt’” initiative sponsored by the Consumer Federation of America and other partners.

Further information is available on Kansas Extension’s Web site: www.oznet.ksu.edu.

 

 

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4)  Keep Bare-Root Plants Moist

MANHATTAN, Kan. – Bare-root plants can be a money-saver, as well as a way to get unusual varieties by mail. Fruit trees and windbreak plants often arrive that way.

For bare-root plants to have a chance, however, their roots must never dry out and they must go into the ground as soon as possible.

“When the plants arrive from the nursery, you need to open the bundles immediately and check for moisture. If the roots aren’t moist, you should soak them in water for six to 12 hours before planting,” said Ward Upham, Master Gardener program head for Kansas State University Research and Extension.

Plants with moist roots can wait a day or two before planting. But they need to be repacked in their original, well-moistened mulch or peatmoss plus shipping paper and then placed in a cool, sheltered area.

Mother Nature doesn’t always cooperate in spring. So, if wet soils will prevent planting for several days after that, gardeners should “heel” the plants in, Upham said.

This means (1) digging a trench in a sheltered, well-drained area that’s out of the sun; (2) laying the plants down with their roots in the trench: (3) placing soil over the roots and firming it; and (4) watering, if the soil isn’t already quite moist.

“The longer they stay there, the less their survival odds will be. So, don’t leave plants heeled in for more than two to three weeks, at most,” he said.

Upham urges gardeners to follow any planting instructions that come with bare-root stock. The graft union for peach trees, for example, must be buried below surface level. The union for apples must be 3-4 inches above soil level. But, many plants need to go in only as deep as where their bark indicates their previous planting depth was.

“Your planting hole needs to be wide enough to accommodate all of the roots without twirling them around inside the hole – an arrangement that eventually can girdle a shrub or tree,” Upham said. “Don’t add organic matter to the backfill soil, because that also discourages roots from growing outside the hole’s limits. Just make sure your fill soil is firm and then water to remove any remaining air pockets.”

Most woody stock do well waiting in a bucket of water as gardeners dig their planting holes, he said.