The "too much" usually involves the soil, dug out to allow room for the tree’s roots.

That soil does require a thorough "working." The forester prefers clods broken up until they’re no smaller than a grape and no larger than an egg.

"But, you shouldn’t amend it unless it’s part of the soil you’re improving over a broader area -- a grove of several trees, for example, or major flower bed," Barden warned. "Through much of the High Plains, improving only the soil that will go back in the planting hole can be the same as confining roots in a big clay pot. Those roots will always dry out quickly. And, if they have to work hard to extend beyond the amended soil, they may start circling around -- becoming ‘pot-bound .’"

The worst way to amend soil is by adding sand, in an attempt to make clay soils less heavy.

"Clay has lots of very small moisture spaces. Sand has a few large ones. So, when you put them together, the clay fills the sand’s spaces," he said. "The result is like concrete -- at least until you add so much sand that it makes up three-fourths of the mix. In half-and-half combinations, you won’t have infiltration of either water or air."

For planting sites with extremely heavy soil, Barden recommends planting just the bottom half of the root ball. Then use improved soil to raise "ground level," creating a broad mound around the tree and covering the trunk as high as the soil did in the tree’s original container.

Hole digging for new trees often falls in both the "too much" and "too little" categories, he said. Naturally-growing trees send most of their roots out to the side. So, they don’t need holes deeper than the vertical measurement of their root ball. At the same time, however, they need planting holes much wider than most homeowners dig -- about three times the width of the root ball in all directions.

Too little planting preparation for root balls is another common problem, Barden said. Steps that tree transplants often need include:

* Remove any shipping material that can’t rot quickly. For example, burlap rots well. Metal wire can take so long to degrade that a growing tree may get cut or surround it. Plastic and fiberglass can be almost indestructable.

* If large roots are girdling the root ball, they’ll be impossible to pull straight. So, cut through them, creating four fairly equal-sized pieces, each of which will soon be putting out small new roots.

* Check the consistency of the potting soil. If it’s greatly different from the planting site’s soil, remove an inch or so from the top, planning to replace it with "native" dirt. If feasible, also consider loosening and replacing some of the potting soil on the sides, while directing the freed roots toward the inside edges of the hole.

Homeowners do all kinds of extremes when actually placing trees in a new location, Barden said.

"I generally fill the hole about half full with soil and then water enough to help it settle out and collapse any air pockets," he said. "Then I fill up the rest and water well.

"Notice that I don’t stomp on the filled soil, because that will just compact it. You don’t fertilize at planting time, either, unless your soil is really sandy."

Barden recommends mulch for all tree transplants and a year of being staked for trees that will be subject to High Plains winds.

Most trees need a 4-inch layer of mulch. Those in hot, windy areas can use up to 6 inches.

"You’ll have to replenish the layer every once in awhile, but never make it any deeper. That can suffocate a tree," he said. "The correct depth is enough to hold down grassy competition, moderate soil temperatures and conserve water. You may never have to pull weeds. In normal weather you may not have to water again for weeks or even months."

Correct staking has three characteristics: (1) It holds the tree upright. (2) It allows the tree to sway in the wind, which makes saplings grow stronger. (2) It doesn’t chafe, rub or cut tree tissues.

"Old surgical tubing can do a good job," Barden said. "The plastic webbing used on lawn chairs is another possibility. Or, you can use a piece from an old garden hose, and thread wire or twine through it so you can fasten it to the stake."

Researchers are still studying the green, somewhat stretchy tape being sold as a plant tie material.

"It’s not as strong as the traditional staking materials for trees. So far, it doesn’t seem to be particularly beneficial, either, unless you’re staking a tree that has smooth, greenish bark in full sun and you’re worried about the potential for sunscald," he said.

Barden provides the forestry materials for K-State Research and Extension’s horticulture programs. Gardeners can view the programs’ Kansas-oriented fact sheets and publications at each Kansas county Extension office or on the World Wide Web (www.oznet.ksu.edu/dp_hfrr/extensn/horticul.htm).