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Though several cool-season grasses are grown in Kansas, tall fescue is considered the best adapted and is recommended for home lawns. The cultivar K-31 is the old standby and has been used for years. However, we now have a number of new cultivars that have improved color, density and a finer leaf texture.
We have 160 different cultivars of tall fescue in our Tall Fescue Cultivar Trial. Quality ratings are taken once a month from March through October. K-31 consistently rates near the bottom. The highest rated named cultivars in 2003 were Justice, Dynasty, Olympic Gold, Watchdog, Davinci, Wolfpack, Avenger, Millennium, Coyote, Picasso, Rebel Sentry, Laramie, Rembrandt, Stetson, Falcon II, Prospect, Blackwatch, Grande II, Titan Ltd. and Barlexas II. Each of these varieties averaged a rating of at least 5.3 on a scale of 0 to 9, with 9 being optimum quality. Keep in mind that mixes of several varieties may allow you to take advantage of differing strengths. It is not necessary for mixes to contain only the varieties mentioned above. If you would like to see the complete list of rated cultivars, go to: http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/library/hort2/srp911.pdf .
Though K-31 may still be a good choice for large, open areas, the new cultivars will give better performance for those who desire a high-quality turf. (WU)
September weather is here, and after the summer we've had, overseeding or establishing new turf may be the answer to the “What to do about the lawn" question. Beyond the issue of whether one needs to reseed or not, anyone with tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass lawns should plan to fertilize and cultivate at this time of year.
September is an ideal time to aerate and fertilize cool-season lawns. And, believe me, many lawns need it. Cool-season grasses are coming out of their summer doldrums and beginning to grow more vigorously as days shorten and temperatures moderate, especially at night. Cool-season grasses naturally thicken up in the fall by forming new shoots at the base of existing plants. Bluegrass re-establishes itself, spreading by underground stems called rhizomes.
Two common aeration methods are power-raking and core-aerating. Power-raking is primarily a thatch-control operation. It can damage turf excessively if not done carefully. For mostly fescue lawns or lawns with « inch of thatch or less, I don't recommend power-raking. Thatch is a springy layer of light-brown organic matter that looks something like peat moss and is located above the soil but below the grass foliage.
Core-aeration is a much better practice for most lawns. By removing cores of soil, core-aeration relieves compaction, hastens thatch decomposition and improves water, nutrient and oxygen movement into the soil. Perform this operation when the soil is just moist enough to crumble easily when worked between the fingers. Make enough passes so that holes are spaced about two to three inches apart. Ideally, the holes should penetrate 2 « to three inches deep. Cores can be left on the lawn to decompose naturally. (This usually takes 2 or 3 weeks, depending on soil type.) They can also be broken up with a vertical mower set just low enough to nick the cores, and then dragging them with a section of chain-link fence or a steel door mat. This creates a mixture of soil and thatch that is good for the lawn.
If your lawn has been severely damaged over the summer you may want to start over. Soil aeration is just as important in this case and best achieved with a rototiller, which not only loosens the earth but also dislodges weeds and other dead or dormant plant material. If you decide to till, be sure to water ahead of time to moisten the hard, summer baked soil. Once you've tilled, rake to get rid of clumpy plant debris and roll to smooth the surface. Then fertilize and seed.
To fertilize in September, apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Aerate first so it is easier for the fertilizer to work into the soil. Most of the nitrogen should come from a quick-release source at this time. Trust me, the turf will use it. It's been fasting all summer. Most fertilizers sold in garden centers and department stores contain either quick-release nitrogen or a mixture of quick- and slow-release, but many of these mixed products are predominantly quick-release. In any case, they can be used effectively for your fall applications. (MF)
You can enjoy apples from January to June -- with the right conditions. Some apple cultivars store for longer periods than others. Some cultivars will stay in firm, crisp condition for about 6 to 8 months with good storage conditions. The approximate length of time that these following cultivars will keep well under refrigerated conditions are:
Wealthy: 60 days
Paulared: 90 days
Gala: 120 days
Jonathan: 120 days
Grimes Golden: 120 days
Golden Delicious: 150 days
Empire:150 days
Delicious: 160 days
Braeburn: 180 days
Idared: 200 days
Rome Beauty: 220 days
Winesap: 220 days
Fuji: 240 days
Granny Smith: 240 days
Arkansas Black: 240 days
* Store only the best quality.
* Pick as they are first maturing.
* Avoid skin breaks, disease or insect damage, and bruises on individual fruit.
* Store in a plastic bag to help retain moisture in the apples. The bag should have a few small holes for air exchange.
The bags of apples may be stored in boxes to prevent bruising if they must be stacked or moved from time to time.
* Refrigerate at about 35 degrees F. An extra refrigerator works well.
*Sort about every 30 to 40 days to remove fruit that may be beginning to rot. (WU)
If you have saved last year's poinsettia and want it to flower again this year, you must follow certain procedures. Poinsettia's are known as "short-day" plants. Growers found out long ago that poinsettias can be brought into bloom if they are given short days and long nights. Originally, it was thought that short-day plants needed a short duration of daylight in order to flower. Now we know that flower formation is actually triggered by long periods of uninterrupted darkness. For poinsettia, at least 12 hours of each 24 must be uninterrupted dark. Night temperature also has an effect and should be below 70 degrees F with 60 to 65 degrees F preferred.
During the day, place the plants in the sunniest location of the house. This high level of light is needed for the plants to have the energy required for good bract coloration. Day temperatures should range between 65 and 75 degrees F.
Providing uninterrupted darkness can be a problem for gardeners unless there is a room in which the lights are never turned on. If you don't have such a room, place your poinsettia in a dark closet or cover it with a cardboard box each night for the required 12 hours. If using a cardboard box, tape all the seams with duct tape to cut off any light. Poinsettia takes anywhere between eight and 11 weeks to flower once the dark treatment has been started. Normally, people start the dark treatment in early October. The first six weeks are critical. For every night you miss during the first six weeks, add two days to the bloom time. After the six-week dark treatment, the buds have set and the dark treatment is no longer needed. (WU)
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) and Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) are popular flowering holiday plants. Both are epiphytes native to the jungles of South America. Epiphytic plants grow on other plants and use them for support but not for nutrients. Though these cacti are different species, they will hybridize and produce varying stem shapes.Christmas cactus normally has smooth stem segments. Thanksgiving Cactus has hook-like appendages on each segment.
Flowering will not occur unless induced by temperature and/or light treatment. If the temperature is held at 50 to 55 degrees F, flowering will occur regardless of day length. But flowering usually is not uniform. Temperatures below 50 degrees F prevent flowering. Flowers can also be generated by nights greater than 12 hours long and temperatures between 59 and 69 degrees. Twenty-five consecutive long nights is enough for flower initiation. It takes an additional nine to 10 weeks for flowers to complete development and bloom.
Both of these cacti like bright indirect light. Too much sun may cause leaves to turn yellow. Common household temperatures are fine. Soil should be kept constantly moist but not waterlogged. These plants seem to flower best if kept a little pot bound. If you need to repot, try waiting until spring. (WU)
Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Matt Fagerness, Turfgrass
Horticulture 2006 E-mail Subscription
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